The exit from Puente la Reina can be done by either crossing the city -always against advice on horse due to heavy traffic and the sharp curves or, arriving to the hostel and taking a path to the left that leads, down a slope, towards a tiny bridge that crosses an even tinier stream. To the right there is a short two hundred meters trot to return up to the very exit of the village, although, in this case, we will not ford across the famous and beautiful six eyed Romanesque bridge. This is a further advantage, because there is an impeccable view, while crossing the modern bridge, of the older one which, obviously, we would miss standing on it. However, we must be careful if we choose this alternative, because the big signs advising the way will lead the hiker to an asphalted and abandoned road which ascends to the alto de Mañeru to later descend to this villa. To avoid this we will have to notice that, just as we leave the bridge, there is a poorly indicated path that folows the left gutter beside the road and ends, just as the former route, in Mañeru, but it is less tortuous, less harsh and, of course, it is not asphalted. Up to Cirauqui, the next village, there is a very beautiful stride, although its physiognomy has clearly suffered ageing under the sun. There will be barly and wheat fields -poppies resembling brazes- yet the spikes do not have the same height anymore, nor are the roads as juicy, not even the clouds are dark and dreadful. We will take a wide path beside a beautiful graveyard, and then a snake trail in between small orchards right to the entrance of Cirauqui -wich means 'viper´s nest' in Basque. Steep dappled streets, ostensive emblazoned houses, windows of black and excessive iron, fresh echoes across the shadowy alleys make this village one of the most beautiful Navarrese villas. At the exit of Cirauqui there is a tiny stretch of authentic, and of course shattered, original Roman road that runs through skinny pretended cypresses taking the pilgrim to a medieval bridge about to fall to the ground for centuries despite the successive restorations. The road and its bridge have a special charm to them, and, coming from the roads of Cirauqui, it is easy to plunge in the atmosphere that the Jacobean route must have had earlier times. No need to hesitate: it is perfectly possible to cross it on horse. Soon afterwards, and before arriving to Lorca, we will come across a tiny gothic stone bridge in a delightful state of decadence, bathed by a river of somewhat muddy waters: it is the famous Salado river (salted) where Aymerich had the misfortune of watching his horses die. He took the chance to swear on the Naverreses -read their above description- and on how, even though they knew that the waters were poisonous and having stated they were potable, they squatted and waited until the poison made effect on the beasts in order to skin them on the spot once dead. All this might be true, but nowadays horses can bathe and drink without the slightest setback, plunging their feet in the mud, their head in the shadow of the bridge and the noise of the highway too close to their ears.

It might not be sensible to drink from these waters, because barely two kilometers away is Lorca and in its main square a specially apt fountain for the beasts can be found. Lorca also has the clean air and concept common to so many Navarrese villas: high walls, a lot of stone and much heraldry, railings, portals, alleys and solid churches.

When we exit Lorca, almost before leaving Lorca, to the right as we exit the square and some fifty meters from it, going down a steep cement slope, we arrive to an almost neglected stretch of a national road. Its sole life is provided by the trucks that stop by a tavern -el Molino- set there and which serves as a help to the bus stop of the bus that goes to Estella. It is a good place for horses -though not excellent- and very good for riders. The food is generous, throats and sweats are refreshed, and the wine is strong, fresh and jolly. C. J. Cela reminds us that there are five reasons for drinking wine: "for the arrival of a friend, to calm the thirst of a moment, to prevent thirst of a moment, to prevent thirst in the future, for the wine´s quality and for any reason other than these". However, there is still a long and beautiful stretch before we get to Estella or Irache, so it is quite advisable to eat moderately and drink soberly. Riders, as it is well known, tend to eat like gentlemen and drink like rouges, but, unless the halt is made in a crude winter, it is preferable to be frugal and delicate, because we have a tough journey ahead.

As we get out of the place -looking towards Lorca, to the right- the Way will run through a parallel path, very close to but not on the road N-111, although in some guides it appears to be right on the asphalt. Shortly after, it will deviate to the left through wavy and lonely wheat fields and we will soon have the sensation of having lost track of the path. Some vineyards, far away trucks and little houses in the fields form the landscape, but no evident sign seems to indicate that taking any path to the west -the riders right hand- we will reach Villatuerta in less than a kilometer.

To enter the town we have to climb up to another stone bridge, which similarly to the previous ones is a delightful ruin despite all its restorations. Its anachronous stems stand out somehow, but they do not clash, and above all, delay the destruction of the bridge in between floods.

We take up a hill side towards the peak of the promontory, from where we can enjoy a wonderful sight and a very fresh fountain where water comes from a cane inserted in a cylinder of concrete two or three meters high. It suffices to take a path through anemic and torrid orchards to come up the graveyard where the dead of Estella reside right by the very doors to the city. The entrance is somewhat uncomfortable for the horses and the exit is even more dangerous, it really looks like a trap for the unadvised. To cross the river -unless we want to continue on the road- there are several bridges. The most attractive and towards wich all expeditions head is a Romanesque bridge -Puente de la Cárcel, blown up in 1873 during the carlist wars- and we reach its center climbing up a strongly steep ramp of flat and slippery cement. The bad news is that the way down takes a strongly steep ramp of flat and slippery cement and the parapet of the bridge does not even suggest the slightest protection, and once at the top very few horses will manage to desdend without constantly slipping. It is quite an experience, but we advice to take the first bridge -made of iron and wood- which can be seen as we approach Estella through the path of the Way. It is safer, more comfortable, and it has splendid views.

Watch your heads.

Once we have crossed the river and made a right turn, standing out like a tumulus to the left we find the church of Santo Sepulcro. If the pilgrim is well advised and has been properly informed, he will try to reach Estella either in the morning, or to spend the night, because Estella, the northern Toledo, occupies an important chapter in any guide of the Way and for a reason. It was as well a city practically taken and built by the Franks -common French- under their habits as well as their ways.

We will not extend on the monumentality of Estella in any case, because it would be a very long and tedious work which would furthermore be a plagiarism of the most complete guide we could have access to and which the reader, most certainly, already possesses.

Nevertheless, we will alow ourselves to insist on the convenience of admiring it, specially the church of Santo Sepulcro, the palace of the kings of Navarra, Nuestra Señora de Rocamador, Nuestra Señora de Puy and above all and very specially, San Pedro de la Rúa.

If we have crossed the iron and wood bridge and admired the portico of the Santo Sepulcro church, it will be enough to continue for a few meters to find, in the Rúa street and before the Tiendas street, the quite hidden pilgrim´s hostel, compulsory stamp an host of the Asociación de amigos del Camino de Santiago and where, apart from counting on proper beds and a warm shower, we can ask for a shelter for up to five horses in an indoor patio. If we follow down the road we arrive to a crossing with the N-111 and a inevitable stretch of motored urban traffic, but instants later, right after the gas station, there is a diversion to the right, to the regional 111 which goes to Ayegui. This is a painfull way, ungrateful, tough and even ugly, but we have to be alert: before returning to the N-111 it is possible to take a ground path that goes, parallel to the road, up to Complejo Irache, where we can find one of the nicest horse rings of all the Way. The best thing to do is ask when we get to Ayegui, but it is reasonable -knowing how locals tend to inform- to ask at least three times. We will have the sensation of being lost until, all of a sudden, we see the bulk of the Irache hotel.

Another alternative is to cross the road towards the Irache monastery and from there on, head to the hotel. Almost no one would want to miss the Irache monastery, specially for its famous free wine fountain where we read: "Pilgrim, if you want to arrive to Santiago with strenght and vitality, take a good sip of this great wine and drink to felicity". But there is another writing that advices against gluttony and greed reminding that " we gladly invite you to drink with amuse; but to be taken away, first the wine has to be paid". So do not fill up wineskins. And there is a webcam in: http://www.bodegas-irache.es

The Lau-Mendi horse ring, property of Jesús María de Carlos, is one of the great relieves for the pilgrim on horse. A few meters from the hotel -of more than decent facilities- there is every thing a tired horse might need along with a beautiful view and overwhelming friendliness. The owner, Jesús, as we said, is an active man, a wonderful person of franc smile, a lover of his job, generous and expert horseman. In his house we will find good chaff and fresh hay; fine fodders and clean stables; good caring and excellent prices.

The Irache hotel is pretty good. Above all it is close to the horse ring and it counts with a spacious restaurant and nice staff, the rooms are modern and comfortables and the price is likewise.